'General Dyer conducted soldiers
for firing on an innocent crowd of Indians through this passage.'
I read those fifteen words a
couple of times before glancing to my right, where the passage began, and then
to my left, where it led to the Jallianwala Bagh. I tried to imagine the sounds
of Army issue boots that would echo if an entire battalion marched down the
narrow corridor, then turned to my left and walked into the Bagh.
There was a slight drizzle but it
had not discouraged people from flocking to the place. A little to my right was
a stone in the shape of a pyramid, with the same inscription on each face, but
in different languages. ‘People were fired at from here.’
I stood near the stone and looked
as far as my eye could reach, imagining men, women and children gathering into
the Bagh on Baisakhi, decades earlier. Then I thought of muskets being loaded
at Dyer’s command, imagined the sound of the guns being cocked, pictured the
uniformed soldiers raising their weapons to their shoulders. For a brief
moment, I found myself thinking about what would happen if a squad of soldiers
opened fire with M4 assault rifles at the crowd that was so happily going
around posing for pictures and pouting for selfies on the ground where blood
had once been shed.
Shaking my head, I turned my back
on my morbid daydream and saw a memorial under a small canopy. Called the Amar
Jyot, the perennially burning lamp was placed on a black stone platform to pay
tribute to the over 1000 people who were mowed down by guns that afternoon.
People were lining up to pose for pictures or selfies in front of the lamp. At
least they were taking their shoes off before entering the inner sanctum, I
thought before turning away.
A path led from the pyramid
shaped stone to the inner part of the Bagh, and as I walked forward, the cold
droplets of the drizzle on my skin seemed to be in sync with the tiny pinpricks
I was feeling underneath, as I trod the ground where the blood of thousands had
been spilled once.
On both sides of the path, the
shrubbery had been trimmed and shaped to look like soldiers armed with rifles
advancing into the Bagh, signifying the progress of Dyer’s soldiers as they
continued their march of death. I walked slowly down the path, stopping at
three walls of the Bagh, where the pockmarks made by bullet holes had been
carefully preserved for viewers. Each mark was highlighted by a white square,
which, in my opinion, was hardly adequate to convey the horror.
While people
were busily clicking pictures of each other and of themselves with the walls in
the background, I was imagining bullets tearing through the flesh of the
innocents before lodging themselves in the bricks. Faint cries of desperation echoed in my ears as I thought of the helpless men, women and children trying to scale the high walls, only to be cut down by the soldiers' bullets. My mind began conjuring visions of people trying to climb the heaps of dead bodies in a last ditch attempt to get out alive before being cut down by the barrage of lead coming from behind them.
As I walked along the walls, I
had to chuckle, although what I saw was far from funny. A stretch of wall
between the two bullet-mark riddled ones was covered with graffiti.
Declarations of love scrawled across the walls or initials carved into heart
shapes decorated the walls which might also have been riddled with bullets had
the helpless innocents tried to climb over these walls as well. Similar graffiti covered scores
of other pillars that I saw while walking to the next destination on my grim
pilgrimage. I saw it from afar before I reached it. The Martyrs Well.
The well into which, when left
with no other option, the gatherers at the Bagh had jumped in a desperate
attempt to save their lives. The same well became their crypt. A signboard over
the well says that 120 bodies were later pulled out of the well. A grill covers
the well now, and I pressed by face to it, trying to gauge its depth. Walking
around its circumference, I finally found an open spot in the grill and managed
to take a picture. Absurdly, I kept peeking to see if I could see any traces of
blood. I couldn't but I somehow knew they were there. Blood always leaves
traces.
A museum of sorts near the
Martyrs Well has a heart rending account of an eye witness, Ratan Devi, who ran
to the Bagh after hearing gunshots and ended up spending the entire night among
the victims, some of them alive and slowly bleeding to death, due to the curfew
imposed in the area. “I found a bamboo stick and used it to fend off the dogs,
while sitting beside my husband's dead body. I saw three men writhing in agony,
a buffalo struggling in pain and a boy, about twelve years old, entreated me
not to leave the place,” Ratan Devi recounts.
The same space also has a
painting depicting the massacre. I tried to take a picture but gave up. There
were too many people taking selfies in front of it.
I walked silently towards a
souvenir gallery near the exit. It contains framed photographs of newspaper
articles about the incident, and the ashes of Shaheed Udham Singh, who later
shot dead General Reginald Dyer in London. Photography is prohibited inside
this gallery, which is a pity, as it also has on display a curiously basic
example of how life can be snatched away without a moment's notice. A coin, one
of its edges bitten off by a bullet, recovered from a victim's pocket. “The
victim later succumbed to his injuries,” the plaque reads.